Enchanting Royal Rajasthan

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Around Jaisalmer

Lodhruva (15 km) : The Jain temple rebuilt in 1970s enshrines a finely wrought silver image of Parasnath (admission Rs 10, camera Rs 50). A cobra lives in the complex. Bus to Lodhruva ( 3 daily, 20 minutes).

Sam sand dunes (42 km) : The Thar desert at Desert national park has huge, silky, undulating folds of sand. It's best to be here at sunrise & sunset, and many camel safaris spend a night here (admission Rs 3, jeep Rs 5). Here one can frame pictures of solitary camels against lonely dunes. Bus to Sam ( 3 daily, 1.5 hour, Rs 22).

Tourist Reception Centre runs sunset tours to the Sam sand dunes (Rs 130) at 3 pm, returning after sunset. The tours to Sam may stop at Kanoi village, 5 km before the dunes, from where it's possible to get a camel to the dunes in time for sunset (around Rs 200).

Location : Rajasthan, India. Access from Jodhpur.

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Udaipur : Rajasthan's most romantic city is packed with palaces, temples, havelis and at the centre lies lake Pichola. The lake has two islands Jagniwas and Jagmandir. Boats leave regularly from the city palace jetty (Rs 100 for 30 min).

Jagniwas island : The 1.5 hectares palace hotel is built by Maharaja Jagat Singh II in 1754. It has shady courtyards, lotus ponds and a pool shaded by a mango tree. Non guests can only come over for lunch or dinner by hotel launches from city palace jetty.

Jagmandir island : It is said that Mughal emperor Shah Jahan derived some of his inspirations for the Taj Mahal from this palace after staying here in 1623 - 24 while leading a revolt against his father, Jehangir. Flanked by a row of enormous stone elephants,the island has an impressive chhatri carved from grey-blue stone, and fantastic views across the lake to the city and its golden palace.

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City palace & museums : The imposing city palace (admission Rs 25), surmounted by balconies, towers and cupolas, towering over the lake, is Rajasthan's largest palace, with a facade 244 m long and 30.4 m high. The palace is entered from the northern end through the Baripol (1600) and the three arched Tripolia gate. To the left, seven arches commemorate the seven times maharajas weighed here and their weight in gold and silver distributed to the lucky locals.

The city palace museum (admission Rs 50, camera Rs 200) includes the Mor chowk, with its lavish mosaics of peacocks. The Manak Mahal has glass and mirror work, while Krishna Vilas has a remarkable collection of miniatures (no photography). In the Bari Mahal there is a pleasant central garden. The Moti Mahal has beautiful mirror work and the Chini Mahal is covered in ornamental tiles. More wall paintings can be seen in the Zenana Mahal. There's a large tiger catching cage near the Zenana Mahal entrance.

Enter the museum from the north side (up the hill from the Jagdish temple), otherwise there's an extra Rs 25 visitor fee.

The government museum in the complex exhibits freaky monkey holding a lamp as well as more serious stuff, such as sculptures, and maharaja portraits with a spectacular array of moustaches.

The nearby Fateh Prakash palace hotel has a stunning crystal gallery (admission Rs 325, no photography). Maharaja Sajjan Singh ordered this rare crystal from F & C Osler & Co in England in 1877; he died before it arrived, and all the items stayed packed up in boxes for 110 years. The extravagant, unused collection includes crystal chairs, sofas, tables and even beds.

Palace ladies once used the gallery to observe the grandiose durbar hall.

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Jagdish temple : The temple is near the city palace entrance, which enshrines a black stone image of Vishnu. A brass Garuda statue is located in front of the temple.

Bagore ki haveli : The 18th century 138 rooms haveli is in the Gangaur ghat area. The haveli has a good art gallery and also displays the world's biggest turban. Rajasthani dance is performed daily at 7 pm.

Fateh sagar : The lake is north of lake Pichola (Rs 20 one way by rickshaw) has a garden park - Nehru park - at the centre.

Shilpgram : The crafts village is 3 km from Fateh sagar and has displays of traditional mud huts, with glittering mirrored interiors from Rajasthan, Gujrat, Goa and Maharashtra (admission Rs 15, camera Rs 10, 11 am to 7 pm). There are also excellent demonstrations by traditional performers and artisans.

Sahelion ki Bari : This small , quaint ornamental garden was laid out for 48 women attendants who came as part of a princess's dowry, and has fountains, kiosks, marble elephants and a delightful lotus pool.

Ahar tombs : The restored cenotaphs of the Maharajas of Mewar, a spectacular city of snowy domes built over 350 years. A museum is nearby (Rs 3, 10 am to 5 pm, 2 km) .

Location : Rajasthan, India.

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Ranakpur has an incredible temple complex in milk white marble, a complicated series of 29 halls, supported by a forest of 1444 pillars (no two alike), the interior is completely covered in intricate, knotted carving. It is one of the India's largest and most important Jain temple (Camera Rs 50, noon to 5 pm). The main temple is Chaumukha, dedicated to Adinath and built in 1439.

Within the complex are two other Jain temples to Neminath and Parasnath, and a Sun temple. About 1 km from the main complex is Amba Mata temple. Simple accommodation is available at the temple Dharmasala.

Ranakpur Jain temple is one of the most beautiful temples in India. The nearest railhead is Falna on Ahmedabad - Marwar line. Ranakpur is 90 km from Udaipur (3 hour).

Mt Abu (1200 m) : It is Rajasthan's only hill station, famous with the extra ordinary Jain Dilwara temples, with the finest, most intense marble carving that you are ever likely to see. Winter nights will be cold. Mt Abu is 27 km (1 hour) from the nearest railway station Mt Abu road. The picturesque Nakki lake is at the town's centre. A walking around the lake will be nice with views of Toad rock and 14 century Raghunath temple. Boating in the lake is another attraction. Unique to the town is baba-gari, a porter pulled handcart.

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Dilwara temples, Mt Abu : It rank among India's finest temple architecture. It's said that artisans were paid according to the amount of dust they collected, encouraging them to carve ever more intricately. Whatever their inducement, there are two temples in which the work is dizzyingly intense, a collection of delicate milky kaleidoscopes, with carving so fine it looks like you should break it off and eat it.

The older of the temples is the Vimal Vasahi, started in 1031 and dedicated to the first tirthankar Adinath. It took 14 years and cost Rs 180.5 million to build. The central shrine has an image of Adinath, while around the courtyard are 52 identical cells, each enclosing a cross-legged open-eyed tirthankar. Forty eight pillars form the courtyard entrance. In front of the temple stands the House of Elephants, with a procession of elephants marching to the temple entrance, some damaged by the marauding Mughals.

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Dilwara temples

The later Luna Vasahi is dedicated to Neminath, the 22 nd tirthankar,and was built in 1230 by the brothers Tejpal and Vastupal for a mere Rs 125.9 million. Like Vimal, they were government ministers. Here the marble carving took 2500 workers 15 years to create. The caving is so fine that, in places, the marble becomes almost transparent. In particular, the many-layered lotus flower that dangles from the centre of the dome is an astonishing piece of work. It is difficult to believe that these huge lacelike filigree actually started as a solid block of marble.

The other three temples in the complex are Bhimashah Pittalhar with a 4 ton five metal statue, Mahaveer Swami and the three storyed Khartar Vasahi. Time : Noon to 6 pm, no photography.

Achalgarh Jain temple is 11 km from Mt Abu are well worth a visit.



Strongly recommended