Mt. Everest Climb

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Mount Everest


Mental fitness is more important than Physical fitness. Men climb mountains because of thier mental fitness - the will power.

Highest mountain in the world - Mt Everest - is 29028 ft 9 in (8848 m) high.It's summit ridge seperates Nepal and Tibet (China). It was discovered to be the highest mountain in 1856 by the survey department of Government of India. The mountain was named after Col. Sir. George Everest (UK) who was the Surveyor General of India from 1830 to 1843. It is known in Tibet as Chomolungma (meaning Goddess mother of the world) and by the Nepali name Sagarmatha (Forehead in the sky).

1953 British Everest expedition headed by Col Henry. J. Hunt assembled at Kathmandu in Nepal on 8 th March 1953. They made an assault on the mountain from April 13 to June 3 and become successful in summitting. Summit attempt was from 0630 to 1130 h on 29 May. The peak was conquered by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay (Nepali, later become Indian
citizen) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand) on 29 May 1953 at 1130 am.

Tenzing after 20 years and six attempts to climb Everest become the first summitter along with Edmund Hillary. They hoisted the flags of UN, Britain, New Zealand, Nepal and India on their ice axe. Edmund Hillary took photos of Tenzing. Tenzing was ready to take Hillary's photo, but he denied. After staying 15 minutes on summit they began their descent.
They returned to Base camp on 1 st June, from there the news spread to the world.

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Everest history & records

1.First major expedition on Everest were in 1921 and 1924 by Mallory. The summit climbers were perished near the summit and their body was recovered in 1990s .

2.Maximum climbers sumitted was 182 in 2001. A record of 89 climbers summitted on 23 May 2001.

3.Everest was climbed more than 1700 times by some 1300 individuals, ages from 15 to 70 including 80 women.

4.More than 185 deaths while climbing , of which 65are Indians. Maxi deaths in day was 8 due to blizzards and very low temperature in 2003.

5.Junko Tabeui of Japan was the first woman summitter on 16 May 1975.

6.First solo ascen without Oxygen was made by Reinhold Messner (Italy) from 18 to 21 August 1980. Summitted on 20 th Aug.

7.Reinhold Messner (Italy), a great moutaineer of ever, cimbed all the 14 peaks above 8000 m solo and without Oxygen - an envyable rcord, yet to be broken.

8.First blind to climb Everest was Erik Weihenmayer on 25 th May 2001.

9.Most ascents on Everest was made by Apa Sherpa of Nepal. He climbed Everest 14 times. His 13 th ascent was on 26 May 2003.

10.Fastest ascent of Everest was made by Lakpa Gyelu sherpa of Nepal in 10 hour 56 min and 46 second on 26 May 2003. The latest record is less than 10 hour ascent from Base camp by Sherpa Pemba Dorji.

11.The longest stay on the summit was by Babu Chhiri sherpa of Nepal. Stayed on summit for 21 hours without Oxygen on May 1999.

12.Oldest man to climb Everest was Yuichiro Miura of Japan reached sumit at the age of 70 years 222 days on 22 May 2003.

For Everest Climb photos visit : http://gallery.bizhat.com/showgallery.php/cat/1274

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Major routes on Everest

Now Mountaineering agencies are arranging Everest climb for tourist climbers with the guidance of expert sherpas. They will arrange the logistics for the expedition, will cut the route through ice and snow, establish Advanced Base camp and other high camps for you and will guide and accompany you to top. If one has the zeal, luck and of course money, he can be a summitter.

1. South route through Nepal : Kathmandu to Lukla by flight, trek to Base camp at 5250 m. Climb through Khumbu glacier - western cwm (6350 m) - South col (7860 m) - South East ridge - First step (8400 m) - Summit (8848 m).

This route is popular and easy compared to the North route.

2.North route through Tibet (China) : Kathmandu (Neapl) - Dolalghat - Friendship bridge at Nepal China boder - Nylam - Xegar - Rongbuk Monastery (4920 m) by road. Base camp at 5100 m, climb through the steep North col route to top.

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EVEREST base camp trek (Nepal) - Kathmandu's World heritage sites include Bodhnath stupa, Swayambunath stupa and Pashupatinath, the Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva.

From Kathmandu to Tyangboche (3867 m)/ Lukla (2834 m) by flight. Lukla to Namche Bazar (3440 m, 20 km, 4 hour, main village), to Tyangboche (5 hour, monastry), to Periche (4243 m, 5 hour, 10 km, accomodation), to Lobuje (4930 m, 3 hour, 10 km, stone huts), to Gorakshep (5150 m, 4 hour, 10 km, single hut), (a) to Kalapathar (5623 m, 3 hour). (b) Everest base camp (5356 m, 3 hour) : 8 days trek. Views of Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse and Everest.

Everest BC has well beaten trail, so one can trek with out even a guide. Season : March to May. Tyangboche has regular flights from Kathmandu from Oct to May. Himalaya has violent blizzards, high winds and intense cold. Weather is of cloudiness, rain, snow, occasional hailstorm or snow blizzards, avalanche etc.

Main peaks in Himalaya : Everest (8848 m, Nepal-China border), K2 (8611 m, POK : Pakistan), Kangchenjunga (8598 m, Sikkim, India), Lhotse (8501 m, Nepal), Makalu (8475 m, Nepal), Dhaulagiri (8167 m, Nepal), Cho oyu (8153 m, Nepal), Nanga Parbat (8126 m, POK : Pakistan), Manaslu (8125 m), Annapurna (8091 m, Nepal), Gasherbrum -1 (8068 m, POK : Pakistan), Gasherbrum -2 (8035 m, POK : Pakistan), Annapurna-2 (7937 m, Nepal), Himachuli (7892 m), Nuptse (7879 m, Nepal), Masherbrum (7820 m, POK : Pakistan), Nanda Devi (7817 m, Uttaranchal, India), Kamet (7756 m, India), Jhomsom (7473 m, Nepal), Pumori (7145 m), Nun (7135 m, Kashmir, India), Api (7132 m, Nepal), Trishul (7120 m, Uttaranchal, India), Kun (7017 m, Kashmir, India), Santopanth (7075 m, India), Nandakot (6887 m, Uttaranchal, India), Ama Dablam (6856 m, Nepal).

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Everest naked Climb

During this climbing season, one Hof with a 4 memeber team is planning to climb Mt Everest half naked - bare footed wearing only shorts. He has already survived sub zero temperautres of North pole by running around 18 km half naked and bare footed.

He is an unexplained miracle to the medical field. One day man will climb the Mount Everest as naked ! - challenging the nature.

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Mount Everest or Qomolangma or Sagarmatha or Chomolungma pronounced as (Jongmalunga) is the highest mountain on Earth, as measured by the height of its summit above sea level. The mountain, which is part of the Himalaya range in High Asia, is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. As of the end of the 2006 climbing season, there have been 3,050 ascents to the summit, by 2,062 individuals, and 203 people have died on the mountain. The conditions on the mountain are so difficult that most of the corpses have been left where they fell; some of them are easily visible from the standard climbing routes.

Climbers are a significant source of tourist revenue for Nepal; they range from experienced mountaineers to relative novices who count on their paid guides to get them to the top. The Nepalese government also requires a permit from all prospective climbers; this carries a heavy fee, often more than US$25,000 per person.

Everest Expedition 2007 : Watch video footage of the climbers as they ascend towards the summit . www.youtube.com/ueverest

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7000 m plus main peaks

1. Gyachung Kang - 7952 m, Himalaya, Nepal-Tibet
2. Gasherbrum III - 7946 m, Gilgit-Baltistan (China-Pakistan)
3. Annapurna II - 7937 m, Himalaya, Nepal
4. Gasherbrum IV - 7932 m, Baltistan; Xinjiang, China & Pakistan
5. Himalchuli - 7893 m, Himalaya, Nepal
6. Distaghil Sar - 7885 m, Karakoram, Pakistan
7. Ngadi Chuli - 7871 m Nepal
8. Nuptse - 7861 m Nepal
9. Khunyang Chhish - 7852 m Karakoram
10. Masherbrum (K1) - 7821 m Pakistan
11. Chomo Lonzo - 7818 m Nepal-Tibet
12. Nanda Devi - 7816 m, Second highest in India
13. Batura Sar - 7795 m, Karakoram, Pakistan
14. Rakaposhi - 7788 m Pakistan
15. Namcha Barwa - 7782 m, Himalaya, Tibet
16. Kamet - 7756 m Uttarakhand, India
17. Kongur Tagh - 7719 m (7649m ?)
18. Gurla Mandhata - 7694 m, Himalaya, Tibet
19. Tirich Mir - 7690 m, Hindu Kush, Pakistan
20. Saser Kangri - 7672 m Kashmir, India
21. Chogolisa - 7665 m Karakoram, Pakistan
22. Shispare - 7611 m, Karakoram, Pakistan
23. Changtse - 7583 m Tibet
24. Trivor - 7577 m, Karakoram, Pakistan
25. Gangkhar Puensum - 7570 m Bhutan, Tibet
26. Gongga Shan - 7556 m Sichuan, China
27. Annapurna III - 7555 m
28. Kula Kangri - 7554 m Tibet(possibly also Bhutan)
29. Chogolisa II - 7554 m Karakoram, Pakistan
30. Mutzagata - 7546 m Xinjiang, China
31. Skyang Kangri - 7545 m, Karakoram, Pakistan/China
32. Yukshin Gardan Sar - 7530 m, Karakoram, Pakistan
33. Annapurna IV - 7525 m Nepal
34. Mamostong Kangri - 7516 m Kashmir, India
35. Ismail Samani Peak - 7495 m
36. Noshaq - 7492 m
37. Passu Sar - 7476 m, Karakoram, Pakistan
38. Malubiting - 7458 m, Karakoram, Pakistan
39. Gangapurna - 7455 m Nepal
40. Peak Jengish Chokusu - 7439 m China-Kyrgyzstan
41. Ghent Kangri - 7401 m Pakistan
42. Haramosh Peak - 7397 m Pakistan
43. Kabru - 7394 m Himalayas
44. Skil Brum - 7360 m (may also be given as 7,410 m)Pakistan
45. Bojohagur Duanasir - 7329 m Hunza, Northern Areas, Pakistan
46. Chamlang - 7319 m Nepal
47. Chomolhari - 7314 m Bhutan-Tibet
48. Chongtar Kangri - 7302 m
49. The Ogre - 7285 m Pakistan
50. Mana Peak - 7273 m, Uttarakhand, India
51. Muztagh Tower - 7273 m Pakistan
52. Diran - 7257 m Karakoram, Pakistan
53. Langtang Lirung - 7227 m Nepal
54. Baruntse - 7220 m Khumbu, Nepal
55. Annapurna South - 7219 m Nepal
56. Melungtse - 7181 m Rolwaling Himal, Himalaya
57. Pumori - 7161 m
58. Tilicho Peak - 7134 m
59. Gauri Sankar - 7134 m
60. Lenin Peak - 7134 m, Pamirs
61. Terishul 7120 m , India
62. Khan Tengri - 7010 m

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8000 m plus peaks

Mountain 		metre 	feet 	Location


Mount Everest 	         8,848 	29,028 	Nepal/China 	


K2 		         8,611 	28,251 	Pakistan 	


Kangchenjunga 	         8,586 	28,169 	Nepal/India 	


Lhotse 		         8,516 	27,939 	Nepal/China 	


Makalu 		         8,462 	27,765 	Nepal/China 	


Cho Oyu 		 8,201 	26,906 	Nepal/China 	


Dhaulagiri 		 8,167 	26,794 	Nepal 	


Manaslu 		 8,156 	26,758 	Nepal 	


Nanga Parbat 	         8,125 	26,658 	Pakistan 	


Annapurna 		 8,091 	26,545 	Nepal 	


Gasherbrum I 	         8,068 	26,509 	China/Pakistan 	


Broad Peak  	         8,047 	26,400 	China/Pakistan 	


Gasherbrum II 	         8,035 	26,360 	China/Pakistan 	


Shishapangma 	         8,013 	26,289 	China 	

Reinhold Messner (Italy), a great moutaineer of ever, cimbed all the 14 peaks above 8000 m solo and without Oxygen - an envyable rcord, yet to be broken.

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Lhotse 8,516 m in China officially Lhozê; Tibetan in Wylie transliteration: lho rtse; Chinese: Pinyin: Luòzi Feng) is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Mount Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle (East) is 8,414 metres and Lhotse Shar is 8,383 metres. It is located at the border between Tibet (China) and Nepal.

An early attempt on Lhotse was by the 1955 International Himalayan Expedition, headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth. It also included two Austrians (cartographer Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn) and two Swiss (Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel), and was the first expedition in the Everest area to include Americans (Fred Beckey, George Bell, and Richard McGowan). The Nepalese liaison officer was Gaya Nanda Vaidya. They were accompanied by 200 local porters and several climbing Sherpas. After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention, during September and October, to the West Cwm and the northwest face of Lhotse, on which they achieved an altitude of about 8,100 metres (26,600 ft). They were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures. Under Schneider's direction they completed the first map of the Everest area (1:50,000 photogrammetric). The expedition also made several short films covering local cultural topics, and made a number of first ascents of smaller peaks in the Khumbu region.

The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. On May 12, 1979, Zepp Maierl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, the highest unclimbed named point on Earth; on May 23, 2001, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.

On 31 December 1988, Krzysztof Wielicki, a Polish climber, completed the first winter ascent of Lhotse. As of October 2003, 243 climbers have summitted Lhotse and 11 have died.

Timeline

* 1955 Attempt by the International Himalayan Expedition.
* 1956 First ascent of the main summit.
* 1965 First attempt on Lhotse Shar by a Japanese expedition - reached 8,100m.
* 1979 First ascent of Lhotse Shar
* 1981 April 30 Second ascent of the main summit by Hristo Prodanov, Bulgaria.
* 1981 October 16 Second ascent of Lhotse Shar Switzerland
* 1984 May 20 Third ascent of Lhotse Shar Czechoslovakia
* 1989 Jerzy Kukuczka perishes while climbing the South Face of Lhotse, when his secondhand rope breaks.
* 1996 Chantal Mauduit becomes the first woman to reach the summit of Lhotse.
* 2001 First ascent of Lhotse Middle.
* 2007 Pemba Doma Sherpa, Nepali mountaineer and two-time summiter of Mt. Everest, falls to her death from Lhotse at 8000 m .

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Kathmandu - Tyangboche flight from Oct to May takes 35 minutes. For trekking permits and booking of peaks, Nepal Mountaineering Association, Ram Shah Path, Kathmandu.

Kathmandu - Lukla flight is also operational.

Lukla - Namche Bazar (3440 m, 20 km, 4 hour) - Tyangboche (5 hour) -Periche (4243 m, 5 hour) - Lobuje (4930 m, 3 hour) - Gorakshep (5150 m, 4 hour) - Everest base camp (5356 m, 3 hour)

Trekking permits (Everest base camp) will be checked at Namche Bazaar.