Everest history & records
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Everest history & records
1.First major expedition on Everest were in 1921 and 1924 by Mallory. The summit climbers were perished near the summit and their body was recovered in 1990s .
2.Maximum climbers sumitted was 182 in 2001. A record of 89 climbers summitted on 23 May 2001.
3.Everest was climbed more than 1700 times by some 1300 individuals, ages from 15 to 70 including 80 women.
4.More than 185 deaths while climbing , of which 65are Indians. Maxi deaths in day was 8 due to blizzards and very low temperature in 2003.
5.Junko Tabeui of Japan was the first woman summitter on 16 May 1975.
6.First solo ascen without Oxygen was made by Reinhold Messner (Italy) from 18 to 21 August 1980. Summitted on 20 th Aug.
7.Reinhold Messner (Italy), a great moutaineer of ever, cimbed all the 14 peaks above 8000 m solo and without Oxygen - an envyable rcord, yet to be broken.
8.First blind to climb Everest was Erik Weihenmayer on 25 th May 2001.
9.Most ascents on Everest was made by Apa Sherpa of Nepal. He climbed Everest 14 times. His 13 th ascent was on 26 May 2003.
10.Fastest ascent of Everest was made by Lakpa Gyelu sherpa of Nepal in 10 hour 56 min and 46 second on 26 May 2003. The latest record is less than 10 hour ascent from Base camp by Sherpa Pemba Dorji.
11.The longest stay on the summit was by Babu Chhiri sherpa of Nepal. Stayed on summit for 21 hours without Oxygen on May 1999.
12.Oldest man to climb Everest was Yuichiro Miura of Japan reached sumit at the age of 70 years 222 days on 22 May 2003.
For Everest Climb photos visit : http://gallery.bizhat.com/showgallery.php/cat/1274
Mountaineering in Nepal - Lhotse
Lhotse 8,516 m in China officially Lhozê; Tibetan in Wylie transliteration: lho rtse; Chinese: Pinyin: Luòzi Feng) is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Mount Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle (East) is 8,414 metres and Lhotse Shar is 8,383 metres. It is located at the border between Tibet (China) and Nepal.
An early attempt on Lhotse was by the 1955 International Himalayan Expedition, headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth. It also included two Austrians (cartographer Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn) and two Swiss (Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel), and was the first expedition in the Everest area to include Americans (Fred Beckey, George Bell, and Richard McGowan). The Nepalese liaison officer was Gaya Nanda Vaidya. They were accompanied by 200 local porters and several climbing Sherpas. After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention, during September and October, to the West Cwm and the northwest face of Lhotse, on which they achieved an altitude of about 8,100 metres (26,600 ft). They were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures. Under Schneider's direction they completed the first map of the Everest area (1:50,000 photogrammetric). The expedition also made several short films covering local cultural topics, and made a number of first ascents of smaller peaks in the Khumbu region.
The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. On May 12, 1979, Zepp Maierl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, the highest unclimbed named point on Earth; on May 23, 2001, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.
On 31 December 1988, Krzysztof Wielicki, a Polish climber, completed the first winter ascent of Lhotse. As of October 2003, 243 climbers have summitted Lhotse and 11 have died.
Timeline
* 1955 Attempt by the International Himalayan Expedition.
* 1956 First ascent of the main summit.
* 1965 First attempt on Lhotse Shar by a Japanese expedition - reached 8,100m.
* 1979 First ascent of Lhotse Shar
* 1981 April 30 Second ascent of the main summit by Hristo Prodanov, Bulgaria.
* 1981 October 16 Second ascent of Lhotse Shar Switzerland
* 1984 May 20 Third ascent of Lhotse Shar Czechoslovakia
* 1989 Jerzy Kukuczka perishes while climbing the South Face of Lhotse, when his secondhand rope breaks.
* 1996 Chantal Mauduit becomes the first woman to reach the summit of Lhotse.
* 2001 First ascent of Lhotse Middle.
* 2007 Pemba Doma Sherpa, Nepali mountaineer and two-time summiter of Mt. Everest, falls to her death from Lhotse at 8000 m .
Kathmandu - Tyangboche flight
Kathmandu - Tyangboche flight from Oct to May takes 35 minutes. For trekking permits and booking of peaks, Nepal Mountaineering Association, Ram Shah Path, Kathmandu.
Kathmandu - Lukla flight is also operational.
Lukla - Namche Bazar (3440 m, 20 km, 4 hour) - Tyangboche (5 hour) -Periche (4243 m, 5 hour) - Lobuje (4930 m, 3 hour) - Gorakshep (5150 m, 4 hour) - Everest base camp (5356 m, 3 hour)
Trekking permits (Everest base camp) will be checked at Namche Bazaar.
