Roopkund trek, Uttarakhand

Roopkund lake (5029 m) is a picturesque and beautiful tourist destination, located near the base of two Himalayan peaks: Trisul (7120 metre) and Nandghungti (6310 metre). This place is famous and well-known among the masses because of the annual Raj Jat yatra.

One has to undertake a 3 day trek to reach the skeleton lake starting from Wan. The skeleton lake is covered with ice for most of the time during the year. However, the journey to Roopkund is an enjoyable experience. All along the way one is surrounded by mountain ranges from all the sides. Generally, trekkers and adventurers travel till Wan by road. From there they climb a hillock and the next camping spot is at Bedni Bugyal which is 13 km from Wan. There is a huge grazing ground for mules, horses and sheeps. There are two temples and a small lake that add to the beauty of this place. One can see a lot of Himalayan peaks from Bedni Bugyal.

Trekkers then go up to Bhagubasa which is 11 km from Bedni Bugyal. The climate at Bhagubasa is hostile for most of the time of the year. One gets a closer view of Mt. Trisul and other peaks.

From Bhagubasa trekkers either go to Roopkund and come back or they go to Shila Samundra (Ocean of Mountains) and then proceed with trek upto Homkund. At Roopkund, one can find a frozen lake during September/Oct. Most people get sun burns. One can see the clouds below and a clear sky above. One has to walk through a snow covered, slippery ridge to reach Zoravar Gali at 5348 m to get an unobstructed view of Trisul and Nand Ghungti peaks.

Rishikesh - Karna Prayayg - Debal (1220 m) - Bagargad (1890 m)- Mandali village - Lohajung pass - Wan village (2590 m) - Bedini Bugyal (3660 m, 12 km) - Belpa Sulera (4270 m) - Kelwa Binayak - Bhaguwabasa (4000 m, 8 km)- Roopkund (5029 m).

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History : Roopkund lake is situated at an altitude of 5029m in the interior of the Chamoli district. Roopkund is famous for the mysterious shallow lake of about 2 m, with the edges covered with snow almost throughout the year. After the snow melts, skeletal remains which are believed to be 500-600 year old, many theories explain the findings but non seem satisfying. The lake is nestled amidst panoramic mountain scenery. According to the tradition the Royal family of Garhwal conducted Nanda Raj Jat to please their isht-devi, so that their kingdom would be prosperous and the enemies would be defeated. According to another legend the royal family undertakes the pilgrimage along with their purohits to seek forgiveness from Nanda Devi, and to offer ‘tarpan’ to one of their ancestors who died at Roopkund along with his pregnant wife and courtesans. Rajah Yashodhaval of Kannauj came on a pilgrimage to the dev bhoomi. His pregnant wife and women of the royal family accompanied him. He decided to go to Homkund along with his entourage. He didn’t heed to the advice that women were not allowed beyond Bedni-Kund. He broke the tradition and went ahead. At Roopkund the Rajah and his entourage perished mysteriously, most probably in a snow-blizzard. Hundreds of skeletons still lie scattered in and around Roopkund. There was a lot of controversy about the mystery of Roopkund.

The general prejudice against the folk-lore led many scholars to attribute the bones to General Zorawar Singh of Kashmir, and his men, who are said to have lost their way and perished in the high Himalayas, on their return journey after the Battle of Tibet. Along with bones of humans, bones of horses have also been found there. But this theory does not explain the presence of female skeletons. Carbon dating of the skeletons, done of Crane and Griffin in 1958 proves that the bones are indeed between 500 to 800 years old. During the Raj Jat even today, ‘tarpan’ is performed for Rajah Yashodhaval and his entourage.

The legend of Nanda is an integral part of the socio-cultural milieu of Uttarakhand. Shrines of Nanda Bhagwati are scattered all over Central Himalayas. To most of the hill-folk Nanda Devi is their isht-devi, and at the same times their outmarried daughter (dhyani). Her relationship to the people of Uttarakhand is somewhat similar to what Sita has to the people of Mithila. Sita is the daughter of Mithila and Nanda, also known as Gaura, is daughter of Uttarakhand.

The Nanda Devi Raj Jat pilgrimage, dating back to the 9th century, is mostly held in intervals of 12 years, when a four-horned Ram is born in one of the villages in the area.

The pilgrimage starts from Nauti village in Chamoli district on Tuesday and takes several days of trekking through the hilly terrain to reach the final destination of Homkund.

The image of the Goddess is taken on a palanquin along with offerings are taken in a procession, accompanied by bare-footed devotees. It is believed that the trek signifies Nanda's (maiden name of Parvati) journey from her maternal village to Shiva's abode in Homkund.

According to the folk songs recited during the festival, King Shalipal of Chandpur Garhi laid the foundation of the tradition. He also authorized his younger brother 'Kunwar' of Kansava to represent the royal house in the yatra with the four-horned Ram and ''chhantolis'' (traditional umbrellas) besides helping the priest perform all rites and rituals connected with the pilgrimage.

Devotees believe that the Ram moves under spiritual influence. It carries the bangles and clothes for Goddess. It is said that a four-horned Ram gets born every 12 years in Chandpurpatti of Karnprayag sub-division.

Chamoli, Uttarakhand, India : September 2026.

The trek route : Wan - Bedni Bugyal - Bagua Basa - Roopkund - Zorawar gali at 5348 m - Shila samudra - Homkund - Sutol - Wan (10 days, 111 km trek)

Distance : 260 km from Rishikesh to Wan.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQpRxXKWapE

Special attraction : Four horned ram, bare footed devotees to Homkund.

Pond /lakes : Bedni kund near Bedni Bugyal, Roopkund and Homkund.

Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra : Celelebrated once in 12 years, next is in 2026 AD. Pilgrimage starts from Nauti village near Karna Prayag in Chamoli.

Climate : Night temp will be freezing, strong winds, rain and snowfall.

Wan has good basic accommodation and is the last village. Wan to Roopkund and back takes 4 day trek with stays in tent.

High Altitude trek to Homkund via Roopkund and Zorawar Gali (5348 m).

30th August 2000

We left for Gopeshwar (U.P) which is around 450 km from Delhi, at 4.00 a.m. and arrived at Gopeshwar in the evening at 6.00 p.m. The route is via Haridwar the last stop before the mountains start, hence 200 km plain journey and 250 km mountain journey. Gopeshwar is at an altitude of 5000 ft.

The journey is very interesting as you cross through very interesting places called prayags which is intersection of two rivers at a point, and the river is the Ganges. At Haridwar all the mountain rivers meet and then it is know as Ganga.

31st August 2000

We started off to the trek starting point at Mandoli Village which is around 95 km from Gopeshwar. We were in two cars/jeeps fully loaded with all trekking equipment including oxygen, rum, etc. and other life saving stuff.

Our group comprised of eight people. We covered 60 km very easily and reached a place called Simly from where the destination Gwaldham was only 35 km, but adventure had already started, there was a landslide in two places and the area could not be cleared even within next 3-4 weeks. We had no choice but to take a detour of 200 km. We reached Gwaldham at around 6.00 p.m. in the evening and from there onwards till Mandoli there is no telephone, roads etc. The roads were so bad that our car got stuck in broken roads, flowing mountain waters etc., lost our fuel filter and by just taking the name of lord, we reached Deval forest rest house by around 9.00 p.m.

1st September 2000 (Mandoli - Wan : 17 km, 3.5 h)

We all went in the forest vehicle to Mandoli village - last village - and 2 km from the village is Lohajung from where medical fitness certificate and registration of porters was to be done.

The forest department's duty was at the last place of camping before the four horned Ram departs at Homkund. The place is called Shila Samudra which translated means Mountain Ocean. Now we had to trek one day ahead of the main Yatra of the four horned Ram, so that when we are at our destination, the place is well taken care off. The trek route was Lohajung - Wan - Bedni Bugyal - Bagua Basa - Shila samudra - Sutol - Wan - Lohajung - Deval.

Today's trek was from Lohajung (the starting point village at 6000 ft) to Wan (means forest, 8000 ft) which is 17 km. The trek was easy and nice and lots of good forest, we took ten porters as provisions for eating, tenting, sleeping, etc. was to be carried, now our group became of 18 people (10 porters). As the pace of everyone is not and cannot be the same, soon the first day itself unknowingly groups were formed, as per ones speed and stamina. We were lucky and spotted a leopard and a snake on our journey to Wan.

I used to walk for 1 hour rest for 5-10 minutes and then again repeat the same procedure. The first day itself I saw many people walking barefoot on rough stones. We Started from Lohajung at 12.45 p.m. and I reached Wan at 4.15 p.m. The porters and second lot of the group came at around 6.00 p.m. The quick fix meals in trekking is known as Khichri (mixture of rice and pulses and vegetables cooked in a pressure cooker), that is what we used to eat and eat and no variety, it used to be a luxury if something else was served.

2nd September 2000 (Wan - Bedni Bugyal, 14 km, 5h)

Wan is a beautiful place with oak trees all around. There is a famous temple of Lattu Devta, the brother of Parvati goddess. We paid our respects and started our trek to a place called Bedni Bugyal, Bedni is a encashment of water and Bugyal means meadow. Our journey was from 8000 ft to 12000 ft and 12 km. I as always reached first at the place called Ghairoli Pattal which is 10 km, reached the place at 1.30 p.m. it was getting cloudy, so I just had some tea and planned to leave as the last two km was straaaaaight uphill. This two km was covered in 2 hour. The four horned ram and the rest of the pilgrimage was to spend the night at Ghairoli Pataal which translated means deep hell (wow what a name). It started raining and by the time I reached Bedni Bugyal at around 3.30 pm, I was somewhat wet. As the porters are used to short cuts, I assumed that they have reached faster than me and I kept searching for them in many tents, some near some far and in the process got further wet. when I had given hope, I saw them, they had stopped in between due to rains and came only when it stopped. This place was very beautiful indeed and as per the name rightly decribed, there was a pond, called Bedni Kund (pond) and as we were above tree line, lush green meadows.

As I had come earlier and seen many tents and tent pitching places, I suggested the porters that another 1 km uphill was a better place to pitch the tent as water does not stay and ground is straight and hard. The porters were reluctant as there was a fire nearby and the they did not want to get up. I with others went to the tent pitching spot and waited for the porters to come. They came after a gap of 20 minutes and at the same time rain also came. It was already 5.30 p.m., hence I pitched my tent in the rain whereas the porters took a big tent and all sat down huddled with the tent covering them, please note without pitching the tent. I was completely soaked and shivering in the tent. The porters in the meantime were very unhappy and indirectly calling names to me, we all changed our clothes in the tent and shivering went inside our sleeping bags. We ate 2-3 biscuits each and tried to sleep with our bladders full. It was raining heavily and no one wanted to go out even to pee. The rain stopped at around 9.30 p.m, that is when others pitched their tents, made some khichri and slept.

3rd September 2000 (Bedni Bugyal - Bagua basa, 7 h)

It was still raining when we got up at 5.30 a.m, there was problem in the morning tea as the stoves that were for cooking purpose, some gaskets or valves had contracted due to cold and they were not being able to light, but as there were other tents, help was available and tea straight from heavens was given to us. It was such a pleasure to hold warm tea in hand. It is very hard to express, this place was marvelous, snow peaks over us, clouds below us and lush green meadows, beauty all around and it was so refreshing getting fresh in the open with one hand with umbrella, the other holding the bottle and sitting in a crouched position.

We ate breakfast , the same old khichri and wounded up our tents and started off to a place called Pathar Nauchaniya, it was continuously raining and our shoes were wet. We walked in the beautiful meadows and crossing through Ali bugyal reached Pathar Nauchaniya at around 1230 h. Translated it means Dancing stones, here is where the King's dancers were turned into stones, well they did not look like sculpture, they looked like ordinary stones to me. Here is where my problems started. we were going to 14000 - 15000 ft and after this place my head started to ache, the right half portion. There are many local theories to why I had headache, the stories are, due to lack of oxygen, there are many variety of flowers hence due to their scent, lack of water, my head was uncovered and cold wind got me, etc.

We reached Bagua basa at 3.30 p.m., Bagua means flowery park and Basa means place. And rightly the place was full of variety of flowers including the rare Bhram Kamal, a special godly lotus found at only and between the altitude of 14000 - 15000 ft. Due to the headache I lay down in the tent and did not participate much in the activities. Next morning I was better but not perfect. From this camp we could see the two peaks, Nanda Ghunghat and Trishuli and could also see just the corner of Roopkund.

4th September 2000 (Bagua basa - Roopkund 16200 ft- Juanagali / Zorawar gali 17500 ft. to Shila Samudra, 8 h).

We departed towards Roopkund, now we were crossing some dangerous areas, there was no vegetation only rocky areas with avalanche prone areas and glaciers. Roopkund was just 5 km and we reached there at around 1.00 p.m. Skeletons welcomed us at this mysterious area. It was a shallow lake with 50 feet diameter and 2 meter deep and all around skeletons, and more skeletons. Took many photographs and maybe the last of skeletons as later on we heard that the pilgrims who were accompanying the four horned ram, when they reached Roopkund, fight broke on between the pilgrims to take possession of skeletons as souvenirs and lots of skeletons were taken away. Roopkund is at an altitude of 16200 ft. It was now 2.30 pm. and the roughest part of our trek and most dangerous was to come crossing the place called Juanagali translated means Valley of Death. From Roopkund there is straight uphill climb like stairs to a height of 17500 ft. where a mountain distance of say 200 m has to be crossed with steep fall to death on both sides. To our surprise we all were able to cross this without much difficulty, the difficult part came later on. The interesting part was that is was raining and there was lots of fog, one could hardly see 5-10 m, this was a big help as you could only the the path and not the fall below, then came the steep downhill path covering nearly 5 km downhill we reached Shila Samudra (Mountain Ocean) at around 4.00 p.m. This place was the most beautiful place I have seen so far. We were at a height of around 13-14000 ft, in a valley and all around us were peaks, snow covered and they looked so so far and high, we were at the peaks base from every side there was water flowing and coming down.

We pitched our tents and clicked many photographs, as usual it was now around 7.00 p.m. In the night the moonlight was striking the peaks and white all around, it was like evening in the night. A spectacular view.

5th September 2000

Today was our rest day as the four horned ram and his team would be arriving here. We took out our clothes and set them to dry. Please note no bathing since we started, we only washed our hands and faces, some cleaning up and resting. There was a herd of Mountain goats called as Gural that could be seen on the cliffs, we saw many a glaciers breaking and the sound was very good. The trek to Homkund was just 3 km, but glaciers were breaking. The devi, the procession and the four horned Ram arrived at around 3.45 p.m., now there were two Rams one black and another white, the black one had very short fourth horns, whereas the white one had big ones.

Clicked many photographs of the procession, the rams, the pilgrims, the excitement etc. More people than expected had come and there was shortage of tents, eatables etc. And it was continuously raining since morning, we were lucky to have had the chance of seeing clear sky and the beauty of the land.

6th September 2000 (Homkund - Sutol, 24 km, 9 h )

As there was continues rain and glaciers were breaking the return journey and farewell to the Ram took place 2 km short of Homkund. Poor thing the rams were tied to stones and left behind to die whereas the rest of the party moved towards Sutol village.

This was going to be the toughest part of the journey to cover 24 km in a day. The first 3-4 km were the most difficult trek, we had to walk on a mountain with steep falls on both sides to a place called Chandaniaghat. From this point Oak forest and Bhoj Patra forest started, the forest path was good and interesting for me, but due to constant rains and downpour and the pilgrims, many many people walking, the path had become slushy, muddy with mud upto the knees. I reached the outskirts of Sutol at around 4.00 p.m., the morning trek had started at 7.00 a.m.

7th September 2000

The team rested this day and revived their energies for the trek to Wan the next day another 19 km trek. Had lavish food, that is food with 2 variety of dishes lots of tea and rest.

8th September 2000 (Sutol - Wan, 19 km)

Started early towards the first halt at a place called Kanol 10 km, reached the place at around 12.30, then we started off for Wan village. It started again raining and wet and tired we reached Wan. The first thing that I did was to take bath with hot water after 9 days, what a feeling, was feeling light and fresh by the time our complete team arrived safe and sound. Had some rum and nice meal, joke and slept very peacefully this day.

9th September 2000 (Wan - Deval)

This path was known to us hence we started not so early at around 9.00 a.m. and reached Lohajung our starting point at around 1.30 p.m. Had some light lunch and some bad luck that the roads between Lohajung till Mandoli and Deval had been blocked due to landslide. The Forest vehicle was stuck in between the slides, hence had to further trek down 5-6 km where we got a jeep. Now this is interesting as there was only one jeep, there were eighteen on us including porters and our luggage, we were in the same jeep and covered around 14 km, another adventure in itself and safely reached Deval at 6.00 p.m.

Another round of celebrations, payment to the porters and biding farewell, we slept safe and sound.

10th September 2000

Started at around 5.30 a.m. and reached Delhi safe and Sound at around 4.30.p.m in the evening.

Route is has colourful wild flowers growing all along this stretch and the rare Brahma Kamal is also found. Tents are to be arranged and taken care of by the individual concerned. There is a Tourist Rest Houses at Loharjung and Wan. Wan village is at an altitude of 2400 m and is the last settlement on this route.

From Wan trek through the forest to Bedini Bugyal Forest Log Cabin, which is 10 km away and at a height of 3354 m. There is temple dedicated to goddess Durga and idol is made up of 8 metals. In the temple at Bedini there is a tradition of sacrificing sheep by the devout pilgrims. In the month of Bhadra (mid August to mid September) fairs are held. From Bedini the various peaks of Trishul, Nandaghunti, Neelkantha, Chowkhamba etc are clearly visible. The next night is to be spent at Bagubasa in tent. Its height is 4100 m and is 8 km away. Patharnachuni is on this route.

The etymology of Patharnachuni is shrouded in history. It is believed that once a king was going on a pilgrimage accompanied by his men. The king was so besotted by the natural beauty of this place that he forgot about the pilgrimage and busied himself by enjoining the dance of the nautch girls and other material pleasures. The gods were angered at his audacity and the weather became disastrous. It was then that the king regained his sense of propriety. But now the king was enraged by his dancers and got them buried alive. With the passage of time these dancers have become pieces of rocks and consequently the name Patharnachuni.

Kailoovinayak is 1 km from Patharnachuni. It is here that one has the opportunity to have a glimpse of Lord Ganesh. Uphill in 3 km from Kailoovinayak is Bagubasa. The way is very dangerous and one has to spend the night in a tent. The upward journey is really strenuous. The colourful rhododendrons, Brahma-kamals and the variety of wild flowers that adorn the whole track seem to dissipate, to a certain extent, the rigor of the painstaking journey.

Roopkund (5029 m) is an oval shaped lake situated 4 km from Bagubasa. The mysterious Roopkund is shrouded in suspense. Even till this date, the mystery of the carcasses of human beings and horses strewn all over the track remains unravelled. These mountains are covered with snow all round the year and it seems as if these mountains standing spherically, keep a close watch on its surroundings. Just beside these ranges are the Trishul and Nandaghunti. They are so close to the lake, that their breath seems to create waves in the lake. Every 12 years during the Raj Jay Yatra festival, there is a huge procession from village of Nauti very near to Karnaprayag. The gold idol of Nandadevi in a silver palanquin is taken out in the procession.

10 km north of the Roopkund is another plain land called Shila Samudra. Another 5 km away from Shila Samudra is Homkund (4000 m).

It is believed that Parvati (consort of Shiva) had lit the sacred fire (ie, Horn) here at Homkund, to satisfy Lord Shiva so that she could gain a place in Kailash and thus the name Homkund. Homkund is also well known as Trishul Tirtha. The natural beauty of this whole stretch is absolutely bewitching.

It takes 2 days to return to Wan. Overenthusiastic tourists can also make a quick trip to the Zorawar Gali (5348 m) from Roopkund and the Ronti Pass (5884 m), from Homkund. From Homkund, tourists can come to Sutol which is 9 km away, and then to Ghat, 26 km away. There is a bus from Ghat which goes to Nandaprayag, 19 km away ie, on the main bus-route of Rishikesh - Badrinath.

Do you want to participate in Ronti pass (5884 m) trek ?

Location : Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, India
Trek type : Strenuous 7 day non stop trek, 6 to 8 hour a day.
Route of trek : Roopkund (5029 m) - Zorawar gali (5348 m) - Homkund (4200 m) - Ronti saddle (5884 m).

Mountains nearby : Ronti (6063 m), Trishul-1(7120 m), Trishul -2 (6680m) , Trishul 3 (6315m), Nanda Ghunti (6309m), Nilkantha(6596 m), Kedardome (6970 m), Choukhamba range, Hati peak etc.

How to reach : Rishikesh is 350 km from New Delhi (8 hour by Express train). From Rishikesh Yatra bus stand travel by road to Wan (250 km from Rishikesh, 10 hour).

Trek Itinerary :

Day 1 : Trek to Bedni Bugyal
Day 2 : Trek to Bagubassa
Day 3 : Trek to Shila Samudra via Roopkund and Zorawar Gali
Day 4 : Trek to Homkund
Day 5 : Trek to Ronti pass
Day 6 : Trek to Sutol
Day 7 : Trek to Sitel, travel to Nanda prayag via Ghat by jeep.

Route Map :
http://gallery.bizhat.com/data/1443/...nd_homkund.gif

Contact Guide :

Mr. Lakhphat Singh Bisth,
Mandoli.P.O.,
Chamoli District,
Uttarakhand - 246427.

GMVN has a full fledged mountaineering and trekking division based at Muni-Ki-Reti, Rishikesh. High class trekking equipment / gear are offered on hire at very nominal tariff. Equipment are available on hire at the following places:

1. Muni-Ki-Reti 2. Uttarkashi 3. Gangotri 4. Purola 5. Ukhimath 6. Ghuttu

Equipment Name Security (In Rs.) Tariff (per day)

Sleeping Bag 1846 25
Rucksack 1100 20
Two men tent 2366 65
Four men tent 2891 80
Hollow filled jacket 1014 25
Wind proof jacket 835 10
Wind proof trouser 535 10
Woolen pullover 371 15
Mattress 85 6
Gaiters 182 8
Woolen cap 51 6
Rappelling mitten 161 8
Feather mitten 248 10
Woolen mitten 52 6

Has anybody completed the trek..please post ur sugeestion tip and pics

I was on the Roopkund and Zorawar Gali trek. Photos and travel experience will be posted soon.

Mystery lake of Roopkund is a tough trek over a stone paved well defined path. The lake is 26 km from the last village Wan and takes 3 days of trek at high altitude. Roopkund (5029 m) is well known for its mystery of the Human skeleton found. It is one of the most attractive trekking destinations in India. From Bedni Bugyal onwards one gets good views of Trishul and Nanda Ghunti peaks. View the peaks at a touching distance from Zorawar gali. The route has flowers like Brahma kamal, Neel kamal and Fen kamal flowers.

On 1 Sept 2007, I boarded Mysore - Nizamuddin Swarna jayanti Exp. from Pune station at 1620 h and reached Nizamuddin on next day at around 1800 h. My connection train - Mussorie Exp - was from Sarai Rohila station near New Delhi at 2100 h. I reached Haridwar on next day morning at 0600 h (3 Sept). Travel to Rishikesh by bus and collected the two men tent and sleeping bag from GMVN office. At around 1300 h I got a bus to Karna Prayag from Yatra bus stand. The zig zag road moves via Dev Prayag, Srinagar and Rudra Prayag to Karna Prayag. Reaching Karna Prayag at around 1900 h and night stay in a hotel.

Karna Prayag has few temples and the sangam to visit. From here the road diverts to Almora and to Badrinath.

4 th Sept 07 : Travel to Lohajung (2500 m) by 0900 h bus, 97 km route via Tharali, Debal and Mandoli. Another bus leaves Karna Prayag for Lohajung daily at 1300 h. The road beyond Mandoli is stone paved and only two buses operates on this route. The bus slowly climb the ghat to reach the Lohajung pass at around 1600 h. There are Lodges and Govt rest houses for stay. One can have meals too from the hotels.

Travel by share jeep to Wan (13 km @ Rs 30). Night stay at Wan near the first tea shop. Nice stay with food. With the help of a high school teacher from Wan village I got a guide - Mohan Singh (s/o Bakhtar Singh, Wan P.O., Chamoli Dt., Uttarakhand - 246427, Phone : 01363 280422 or Delhi (pp) : 9968178496).

My guide cum porter - Mohan Singh - was ready for the trek @ Rs 400 per day. We purchased food items, vegetables, oil and kerosine. He also collected his stove and cooking utensils from his home. Rates : Porter Rs 250 per day, Cook/guide - Rs 300 per day. Food and accommodation has to be provided in addition.

The route to Roopkund is stone paved and clear. Around 15 to 20 trekkers visit the 'kund' daily in the climbing season. The weather is very nice in the first half of September. Carrying a light rain coat and a plastic sheet to cover the bag is very important. Don't argue or discuss hot topics at high altitude (altitude sickness). Trekking is not a competition, so be at your pace. Walk and take rest to enjoy the beauty of surroundings on the trek.

Wan Photos

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5 th Sept 07 : We started the trek at 0900 h after doing the packing. The stone paved route slowly climbs to ridge via stone thatched village huts. Villagers were very friendly and offered tea. From the ridge, the track descends to a small river bridge through forested area full of flowers and long trees. From the bridge, the roue climbs steeply to Ghairoli Pathal. A forest office has been constructed recently (2007) and is in closed condition. The route climbs steeply to Bedni Bugyal at 3354 m. Now we are above the tree line and Bugyals are high altitude meadows. Bedni Bugyal and Ali Bugyal are the main grass meadows in this area.

Night stay in tent near the Forest rest house. Forest rest house can accommodate 5 to 8 people group in two separate rooms. It has a brick wall and a tin sheet roof safe from cold wind.

Forest official at Bedni Bugyal will collect a sum depending on the number of days of camping and number of persons attending the trek including guide, cook and porters. Trial management fee @ Rs 60 per tourist and @ Rs 20 per porter and or guide. Camping @ Rs 100 per day. Non biodegradable waste recycling fee @ Rs 10 per person.

I paid Rs 200 for my guide and myself for 2 days camping. The night in the tent was sleepless and there was mild rain.

Annual Nanda Devi festival is conducted in the month of September (12 to 16 Sept 2007).

Bedni Bugyal

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6 th Sept 07 : By 0630 h I started the trek to Bagubasa with another Bengali group of four, guided by Lakhpath Singh Bist. The route gently climbs to Pather Nachini and we had a refreshing hot tea there. From there the steep climb to Kailu Binayak starts. On top there is a small shrine of Lord Ganesh. A 2 km walk leads to Bagubasa cave and the track leads to the camping site. The campsite can accommodate around 30 to 40 people. Stone huts are there and are not used. There was raining with small ice balls. It make my hand numb and I started shivering. When I reached the camp, our porter help me to warm the numb hands in hot stove lighted under a huge boulder cum cave.

Survival in high altitude depends on your cloths and equipment. If it is of poor quality or inadequate, it can be dangerous to life. My rucksack was not waterproof and I was not carrying plastic sheet to cover the bag. My bag become heavy after the rainfall and it become difficult to walk.
So please don't compromise the quality of survival equipment for the sake of reducing weight or any other reason.

We, the two groups, pitched the tents around one kilometre beyond the main campsite of Bagubasa. The area is full of Brahm Kamals and other type of flowers. Brahm Kamal is a high altitude Himalayan flower believed to be showered by Lord Brahma from heaven.

After having 'kicchadi', we all went to sleep. Our porter and cook stayed in the cave nearby. It was a sleepless night due to headache and the chilly weather. Luckily there was no rain. At night a shouting sound was heard - "Mohan Singh, Mohan Singh ....". My guide rushed out of my
tent to the cave nearby. A bharel was killed for meat that night by the greedy porters.

Bagubasa photos

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7 th Sept 07 : We started an early trek at slow pace to Roopkund. The area is prone to shooting stones and rolling pebbles. On the route and at the lake one can see Neel kamal (blue) and Fen Kamal flowers (white). At the lake there is a shrine of Nanda Devi where trekkers make offerings - one rupee coins and food items. A steep climb leads top Roopkund, a lake having 20 m diameter covered with thin layer of ice over water. At the centre of the lake there was a huge boulder and is visible over water. Few human bones (that of lag and hand) are left presently. A skull and few bones were collected by trekkers and is placed on a rock. Trekkers take human bones as memento, thus reducing the number of bones to few tens with a single skull. Undecayed flesh attached to bones show the weather conditions around the lake.

A further 30 minute climb on a clear route leads to Zorawar gali, a pass at 5350 m. The pass has good views of Mt Trishul and Nanda Ghunti peaks at close quarters.

Getting a fair weather at high altitude is a luck. Normally morning time up to 1000 h is good with clear sky. Afternoon will be having unpredictable climate with high wind velocity. The weather can change within minutes from sunny to rainy/windy/fog. It is 6 hour to and fro trek from Bagubasa.

From Zorawar gali, the route leads to Homkund via Sila Samudra. During Nanda Devi Jat Yatra, a four horned ram will be set free at Homkund lake. From Homkund, interested trekkers can climb to Ronti Saddle (5850 m) and get out to Ghat road head.

We reached Bagubasa camp by 1300 h and had our lunch. I cannot eat food because of altitude sickness. I eat some glucose powder and dry fruits. After a rest of one hour, we packed our tent and started the return trek. By 1700 h, we crossed Kailu Binayak and reached a place called Pather Nachini. Mohan Singh and I pitched the tent on the wayside and we were the last humans on this route that night. Rice & dal for supper, I was again unable to eat it due to altitude sickness. Again a sleepless night with persistent headache. A Crocin released the pain but sleep was still away.

The next day was a clear day with great views of the snowy range mainly Trishul and Nanda Ghunti. Though tired, I wished to trek again to Zorawar gali !. Only a lucky few get such clear weather in high altitude. Normally sky gets clear during the first half of September.

Roopkund &Zorawar gali

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8 th Sept 07 : By 0630 h, we packed our tent and started the last phase of our trek to Wan. I was in good health condition and glucose helped me to be energetic. By 1500 h we reached Wan and had a late lunch. While packing my items, I am shocked to see a big meat piece in Mohan Singh's bag - the bharel which we all lost.... By 1700 h, I get a share jeep to Lohajung at Rs 30. Night stay in a nearby hotel to catch the 0400 h direct bus to Haridwar.

9 th Sept 07 : An early start at 0400 h and a good driver take me safely to Rishikesh at 1500 h. A long 11 hour drive through the zig zag Himalayan road. Night stay near the Delhi bus stand. An evening visit to Shivanand jhula bridge, Chotiwala restaurant having a live mascot and the ashrams - Swarg ashram and Gita Bhavan - on the bathing ghats of holy Ganga. Rishikesh is a holy city to Hindus where the mighty Ganga embrace the plain. It is the citadel of Yoga and home to many sadhus.

10 th Sept 07 : By morning 1000 h, I reached the Muni Ki Reiti office of GMVN to return the two men tent and sleeping bag. I thanked the very co-operative GMVN staff for helping me by giving the good quality items for the trek. On return, I visited the nearby temples, ghats and Sangam ghat.

By 1200 h, I got a bus to Delhi and reached ISBT by 1700 h. Night stay at Kerala guest house near Pahad ganj / New Delhi railway station.

Rishikesh photos

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11 th Sept 07 : Conducted tour of Delhi @ Rs 100.

12 th Sept 07 : Visited Jama Masjid, Zoo, Purana kila, crafts museum and Shankar's doll museum.

13 th Sept 07 : Visited Humayun's tomb, Nizamuddin shrine and Rail transport museum at Chanakyapuri.

14 th Sept 07 : Visited Jantar Mantar solar observatory, Connaught place, Palika bazaar and the Metro railway station.

15 th Sept 07 : Return journey by Mangala Express to Kochi. Reached Kochi in Kerala on 17 th Sept at around 1200 h. A visit to Arabian sea completes my Sky to ocean expedition.

I want to know the route from baloni top through devikund to roopkund.I am talking about baloni top near kathaliya in sunderdunga region.Do anyone know about it?Please help me.