Rumtek monastery : It is the official seat of Gyalwa Karmapa, the spiritual leader of the Kagyu sect. The monastery has attractive murals and huge statues of Sakyamuni and Mahakala. A giant throne awaits the arrival of the 17th Karmapa (Ogyen Trinley Dorje, teenage lama, fled from Tibet to Dharmasala in India in 2000). Karma Shri Naland institute of Buddhist studies is lavishly decorated. The bones and ashes of the 16th karmapa are kept in a magnificent jewel studded reliquary, known as the Golden stupa.

Rumtek is famous for its chaams (mask dance). The annual Drupchen festival is in May/June. Guthor chaam with lhamo (Tibetan opera) is in Feb/Mar. A 2 km further along the same road leads to Old Rumtek. The Kagyed chaam dance is 2 days before Losoong (Sikkimese New year, Dec/Jan).

The best time to visit a gompa (Buddhist monastery) is during the morning puja (prayers), when monks and novices gather to chant passages from the sacred scriptures, accompanied by ringing cymbals, booming drums, and honking Tibetan horns. A second prayer meeting is at 9 am.

Rumtek is 26 km from Gangtok. Share jeeps leave from Lal Bazaar jeep stand (Rs 20, 1 hour). The last return jeep is at 1 pm.