High Altitude trek to Homkund via Roopkund and Zorawar Gali (5348 m).

30th August 2000

We left for Gopeshwar (U.P) which is around 450 km from Delhi, at 4.00 a.m. and arrived at Gopeshwar in the evening at 6.00 p.m. The route is via Haridwar the last stop before the mountains start, hence 200 km plain journey and 250 km mountain journey. Gopeshwar is at an altitude of 5000 ft.

The journey is very interesting as you cross through very interesting places called prayags which is intersection of two rivers at a point, and the river is the Ganges. At Haridwar all the mountain rivers meet and then it is know as Ganga.

31st August 2000

We started off to the trek starting point at Mandoli Village which is around 95 km from Gopeshwar. We were in two cars/jeeps fully loaded with all trekking equipment including oxygen, rum, etc. and other life saving stuff.

Our group comprised of eight people. We covered 60 km very easily and reached a place called Simly from where the destination Gwaldham was only 35 km, but adventure had already started, there was a landslide in two places and the area could not be cleared even within next 3-4 weeks. We had no choice but to take a detour of 200 km. We reached Gwaldham at around 6.00 p.m. in the evening and from there onwards till Mandoli there is no telephone, roads etc. The roads were so bad that our car got stuck in broken roads, flowing mountain waters etc., lost our fuel filter and by just taking the name of lord, we reached Deval forest rest house by around 9.00 p.m.

1st September 2000 (Mandoli - Wan : 17 km, 3.5 h)

We all went in the forest vehicle to Mandoli village - last village - and 2 km from the village is Lohajung from where medical fitness certificate and registration of porters was to be done.

The forest department's duty was at the last place of camping before the four horned Ram departs at Homkund. The place is called Shila Samudra which translated means Mountain Ocean. Now we had to trek one day ahead of the main Yatra of the four horned Ram, so that when we are at our destination, the place is well taken care off. The trek route was Lohajung - Wan - Bedni Bugyal - Bagua Basa - Shila samudra - Sutol - Wan - Lohajung - Deval.

Today's trek was from Lohajung (the starting point village at 6000 ft) to Wan (means forest, 8000 ft) which is 17 km. The trek was easy and nice and lots of good forest, we took ten porters as provisions for eating, tenting, sleeping, etc. was to be carried, now our group became of 18 people (10 porters). As the pace of everyone is not and cannot be the same, soon the first day itself unknowingly groups were formed, as per ones speed and stamina. We were lucky and spotted a leopard and a snake on our journey to Wan.

I used to walk for 1 hour rest for 5-10 minutes and then again repeat the same procedure. The first day itself I saw many people walking barefoot on rough stones. We Started from Lohajung at 12.45 p.m. and I reached Wan at 4.15 p.m. The porters and second lot of the group came at around 6.00 p.m. The quick fix meals in trekking is known as Khichri (mixture of rice and pulses and vegetables cooked in a pressure cooker), that is what we used to eat and eat and no variety, it used to be a luxury if something else was served.

2nd September 2000 (Wan - Bedni Bugyal, 14 km, 5h)

Wan is a beautiful place with oak trees all around. There is a famous temple of Lattu Devta, the brother of Parvati goddess. We paid our respects and started our trek to a place called Bedni Bugyal, Bedni is a encashment of water and Bugyal means meadow. Our journey was from 8000 ft to 12000 ft and 12 km. I as always reached first at the place called Ghairoli Pattal which is 10 km, reached the place at 1.30 p.m. it was getting cloudy, so I just had some tea and planned to leave as the last two km was straaaaaight uphill. This two km was covered in 2 hour. The four horned ram and the rest of the pilgrimage was to spend the night at Ghairoli Pataal which translated means deep hell (wow what a name). It started raining and by the time I reached Bedni Bugyal at around 3.30 pm, I was somewhat wet. As the porters are used to short cuts, I assumed that they have reached faster than me and I kept searching for them in many tents, some near some far and in the process got further wet. when I had given hope, I saw them, they had stopped in between due to rains and came only when it stopped. This place was very beautiful indeed and as per the name rightly decribed, there was a pond, called Bedni Kund (pond) and as we were above tree line, lush green meadows.

As I had come earlier and seen many tents and tent pitching places, I suggested the porters that another 1 km uphill was a better place to pitch the tent as water does not stay and ground is straight and hard. The porters were reluctant as there was a fire nearby and the they did not want to get up. I with others went to the tent pitching spot and waited for the porters to come. They came after a gap of 20 minutes and at the same time rain also came. It was already 5.30 p.m., hence I pitched my tent in the rain whereas the porters took a big tent and all sat down huddled with the tent covering them, please note without pitching the tent. I was completely soaked and shivering in the tent. The porters in the meantime were very unhappy and indirectly calling names to me, we all changed our clothes in the tent and shivering went inside our sleeping bags. We ate 2-3 biscuits each and tried to sleep with our bladders full. It was raining heavily and no one wanted to go out even to pee. The rain stopped at around 9.30 p.m, that is when others pitched their tents, made some khichri and slept.

3rd September 2000 (Bedni Bugyal - Bagua basa, 7 h)

It was still raining when we got up at 5.30 a.m, there was problem in the morning tea as the stoves that were for cooking purpose, some gaskets or valves had contracted due to cold and they were not being able to light, but as there were other tents, help was available and tea straight from heavens was given to us. It was such a pleasure to hold warm tea in hand. It is very hard to express, this place was marvelous, snow peaks over us, clouds below us and lush green meadows, beauty all around and it was so refreshing getting fresh in the open with one hand with umbrella, the other holding the bottle and sitting in a crouched position.

We ate breakfast , the same old khichri and wounded up our tents and started off to a place called Pathar Nauchaniya, it was continuously raining and our shoes were wet. We walked in the beautiful meadows and crossing through Ali bugyal reached Pathar Nauchaniya at around 1230 h. Translated it means Dancing stones, here is where the King's dancers were turned into stones, well they did not look like sculpture, they looked like ordinary stones to me. Here is where my problems started. we were going to 14000 - 15000 ft and after this place my head started to ache, the right half portion. There are many local theories to why I had headache, the stories are, due to lack of oxygen, there are many variety of flowers hence due to their scent, lack of water, my head was uncovered and cold wind got me, etc.

We reached Bagua basa at 3.30 p.m., Bagua means flowery park and Basa means place. And rightly the place was full of variety of flowers including the rare Bhram Kamal, a special godly lotus found at only and between the altitude of 14000 - 15000 ft. Due to the headache I lay down in the tent and did not participate much in the activities. Next morning I was better but not perfect. From this camp we could see the two peaks, Nanda Ghunghat and Trishuli and could also see just the corner of Roopkund.

4th September 2000 (Bagua basa - Roopkund 16200 ft- Juanagali / Zorawar gali 17500 ft. to Shila Samudra, 8 h).

We departed towards Roopkund, now we were crossing some dangerous areas, there was no vegetation only rocky areas with avalanche prone areas and glaciers. Roopkund was just 5 km and we reached there at around 1.00 p.m. Skeletons welcomed us at this mysterious area. It was a shallow lake with 50 feet diameter and 2 meter deep and all around skeletons, and more skeletons. Took many photographs and maybe the last of skeletons as later on we heard that the pilgrims who were accompanying the four horned ram, when they reached Roopkund, fight broke on between the pilgrims to take possession of skeletons as souvenirs and lots of skeletons were taken away. Roopkund is at an altitude of 16200 ft. It was now 2.30 pm. and the roughest part of our trek and most dangerous was to come crossing the place called Juanagali translated means Valley of Death. From Roopkund there is straight uphill climb like stairs to a height of 17500 ft. where a mountain distance of say 200 m has to be crossed with steep fall to death on both sides. To our surprise we all were able to cross this without much difficulty, the difficult part came later on. The interesting part was that is was raining and there was lots of fog, one could hardly see 5-10 m, this was a big help as you could only the the path and not the fall below, then came the steep downhill path covering nearly 5 km downhill we reached Shila Samudra (Mountain Ocean) at around 4.00 p.m. This place was the most beautiful place I have seen so far. We were at a height of around 13-14000 ft, in a valley and all around us were peaks, snow covered and they looked so so far and high, we were at the peaks base from every side there was water flowing and coming down.

We pitched our tents and clicked many photographs, as usual it was now around 7.00 p.m. In the night the moonlight was striking the peaks and white all around, it was like evening in the night. A spectacular view.

5th September 2000

Today was our rest day as the four horned ram and his team would be arriving here. We took out our clothes and set them to dry. Please note no bathing since we started, we only washed our hands and faces, some cleaning up and resting. There was a herd of Mountain goats called as Gural that could be seen on the cliffs, we saw many a glaciers breaking and the sound was very good. The trek to Homkund was just 3 km, but glaciers were breaking. The devi, the procession and the four horned Ram arrived at around 3.45 p.m., now there were two Rams one black and another white, the black one had very short fourth horns, whereas the white one had big ones.

Clicked many photographs of the procession, the rams, the pilgrims, the excitement etc. More people than expected had come and there was shortage of tents, eatables etc. And it was continuously raining since morning, we were lucky to have had the chance of seeing clear sky and the beauty of the land.

6th September 2000 (Homkund - Sutol, 24 km, 9 h )

As there was continues rain and glaciers were breaking the return journey and farewell to the Ram took place 2 km short of Homkund. Poor thing the rams were tied to stones and left behind to die whereas the rest of the party moved towards Sutol village.

This was going to be the toughest part of the journey to cover 24 km in a day. The first 3-4 km were the most difficult trek, we had to walk on a mountain with steep falls on both sides to a place called Chandaniaghat. From this point Oak forest and Bhoj Patra forest started, the forest path was good and interesting for me, but due to constant rains and downpour and the pilgrims, many many people walking, the path had become slushy, muddy with mud upto the knees. I reached the outskirts of Sutol at around 4.00 p.m., the morning trek had started at 7.00 a.m.

7th September 2000

The team rested this day and revived their energies for the trek to Wan the next day another 19 km trek. Had lavish food, that is food with 2 variety of dishes lots of tea and rest.

8th September 2000 (Sutol - Wan, 19 km)

Started early towards the first halt at a place called Kanol 10 km, reached the place at around 12.30, then we started off for Wan village. It started again raining and wet and tired we reached Wan. The first thing that I did was to take bath with hot water after 9 days, what a feeling, was feeling light and fresh by the time our complete team arrived safe and sound. Had some rum and nice meal, joke and slept very peacefully this day.

9th September 2000 (Wan - Deval)

This path was known to us hence we started not so early at around 9.00 a.m. and reached Lohajung our starting point at around 1.30 p.m. Had some light lunch and some bad luck that the roads between Lohajung till Mandoli and Deval had been blocked due to landslide. The Forest vehicle was stuck in between the slides, hence had to further trek down 5-6 km where we got a jeep. Now this is interesting as there was only one jeep, there were eighteen on us including porters and our luggage, we were in the same jeep and covered around 14 km, another adventure in itself and safely reached Deval at 6.00 p.m.

Another round of celebrations, payment to the porters and biding farewell, we slept safe and sound.

10th September 2000

Started at around 5.30 a.m. and reached Delhi safe and Sound at around 4.30.p.m in the evening.