My Travel

**Perfection** · 07-26-2008, 01:36 PM

Ranakpur Jain temple complex : Rajasthan's most outstanding Jain temples are at Ranakpur and at Dilwara in Mount Abu. Ranakpur complex is a huge cluster of temples with intricately carved 1444 pillars of different design and domes in white marble. The entrance has erotic sculptures reminding the importance of keeping such feelings out before entering the temple. The sanctum has a four faced marble image of Adinath. The temple has stunning filigree carving on the concentric ceiling pendants, and the exuberant grace of the goddesses who form the support brackets.

The four sided temple has a wall topped with spires and four separate entrances. The 15th century temple has profuse decoration inside showing the importance of rich inner life.

Kalpavalli medallion on the roof has exquisite patterns of foliage, tendrils and flowers. The Parsvanatha plaque shows the 23rd tirthankara protected by a multi-headed cobra. Another ceiling has a four bodied one head sculpture. The temple has domes, a central high tower with a long flag, torana, huge bells, three marble elephants, a number of Jain deities in side chambers and an incomplete structure of stupas on the northern side.

The nearby 15th century Parsvanatha temple has exceptionally fine pierced stonework on its windows. A Hindu Sun temple is outside the complex wall near the Sayara (20 km) ghat road on Udaipur route. The area has plenty of wildlife and a guided jungle walk will be enjoyable.

Photography of the temple can be done from Noon to 5 pm at a fee of Rs 50 per camera. The temple entry is forbidden to menstruating women. Leather articles are not allowed inside. Jainism is based of total non-violence. The temple Dharmasala provides cheap and best food and accommodation.

It was a 3.5 hour journey from Udaipur (90 km). I left Ranakpur at 1800 h by Jodhpur bus (4.5 h , Rs 100). I stayed at a lodge near the Jodhpur railway station. Jodhpur has plenty of peacocks.

**Perfection** · 07-26-2008, 01:40 PM

Jodhpur's main attraction is the Mehrangarh fort. On next day, I visited High Court building, Sadar Govt. museum and Zoo, which are at walkable distance from the Bus stand. From bus stand, I reached the market (Swastik gate) by bus. The market has little shops selling silver jewellery, lacquer bangles, tie-dyed fabrics, soft camel leather shoes, puppets, clay figurines and colourful heaps of sweets and spices. The pavements were lined with henna artists who decorate women's palms with intricate, lacy patterns. I started the walk towards Mehrangarh fort via clock tower. The route slowly climbs to the fort's entrance.

**Perfection** · 07-26-2008, 01:42 PM

Mehrangarh fort : The sandstone fort is rising sheer out of 125 m high rock. The bastioned walls are 24 m thick and 40 m high. The majestic fort has a huge palace inside, which houses a museum. Entry Rs 20, camera Rs 50. The main gate to the fort is Jai Pol followed by six more gates that leads to the palace. Suraj Pol is the entrance to the museum.

Mehrangarh fort museum is one of the best museums in Rajasthan. The collection includes a golden throne, fine miniature paintings, traditional costumes, Rajasthani turbans, folk music instruments and fascinating weapons. The museum has Palki khana exhibiting richly gilded palanquins, elephant howdahs and a spectacular palanquin covered in gold leaf dating to 1730.

The 17th century howdah made of solid silver, a gift from the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. Shringar Chowk courtyard has the coronation throne of the Jodhpur rulers made of white marble.

The Silesh Khana weapon collection includes damascened Mughal daggers, gem-studded shields and special armour for war elephants. Steps leads to Umaid Mahal, which exhibits miniature paintings of Jodhpur school. The next chamber is Phool Mahal ("Flower Palace"), the Hall of Public Audience.

**Perfection** · 07-26-2008, 01:43 PM

Phool Mahal - the most opulent chamber in the palace - is decorated with paintings, gilded roof, coloured glass windows, mirrors, a throne and red carpet. Folk dance and song demonstration are another attraction in the fort. The fort has a tripple domed temple, ramparts with more than 40 big sized cannons on wheels, gun powder carts and a Chamundi Devi temple at the end of the ridge with a fairly large pond. The fort ramparts has good views of the blue painted houses of Brahmapuri village below.

Takhat Mahal is exuberantly painted room with a wooden ceiling was the favourite retreat of Maharaja Takhat Singh, who had 30 queens and numerous concubines. The Mahal is painted with murals of Radha and Krishna and dancing maidens.

Moti Mahal is a magnificent room having beautiful coloured glass windows, ceiling decorated with mirrors and gold leaf. Crushed seashells were mixed with plaster to give its walls a lustrous sheen.

Jhanki Mahal ("Peeping palace"), so called because the women of the royal zenana could peep through its exquisite latticed stone screens to observe the festivities in the courtyard below. It has a collection of royal cradles, including one with an ingenious rocking mechanism, surmounted by guardian angels.

The route leads to zenana mahal (royal women's quarters) and to King's personal room, where a big royal Sun emblem is displayed.

**Perfection** · 07-26-2008, 01:55 PM

Jaswant Tada : The elegant pillared marble memorial with fine lattice carving is the chhatri (cenotaph) of Jaswant Singh II (1878 - 1895) built in 1906. Entry Rs 10, camera Rs 50. It is about 1.5 km from the fort by road. Other tombs of small size are nearby in a lower platform.

Umaid Bhavan palace : The immense palace has 347 rooms is built of creamy-pink sandstone and marble with lavishly decorated reception halls, a central 60 m dome and an underground swimming pool. Begun in 1929, it took 3000 men 15 years to complete.

HV Lanchester, the architect of the Central Hall of Westminster in London, was the architect of the palace. A part of this palace hotel is converted to a museum (Entry Rs 15). The museum has a good collection of decorated weapons, paintings, French furniture, porcelain and vintage clocks. Travel from Swastik gate/High Court to the palace by auto (3 km).

On next day, I boarded the Rathanbore superfast from Jodhpur(0545 h) for Jaipur (313 km, Rs 87, 6 hour travel). The route goes via Sawai Madhopur jn., Ren, Metra road, Makrana (famous for white marble quarries, which supplied marbles to Dilwara temples, Taj Mahal and Victoria memorial), Sambar lake (largest salt lake) and Phulera. Stayed in a lodge near Jaipur railway station.

**Perfection** · 07-28-2008, 03:27 PM

Jaipur : The capital of Rajasthan known as Pink City. Jewellery is an integral part of Rajasthani culture. Even camels, horses and elephants have specially designed anklets and necklaces. Jaipur is one of the largest ornament making centres in India. The meenakari (enamel work) and kundankari (inlay work with gems) on gold and silver are the two most famous traditional techniques. Jaipur's main tourist attraction is the City palace's Sawai Man Singh II museum.

Jaipur is internationally famous for expert cutting of emeralds and diamonds. Gem cutters learn their skill by cutting garnets. They are skilled in stone setting. The Meenakari painting on metal is also Jaipur's own speciality. Meenakari decorated metal boxes have traditional floral patterns in red, blue, green and white. A jewelled trinket box with a kundankari lid will be a good purchase. Kundankari uses highly refined gold as a base, which is then inlaid with lac and set with precious and semi-precious stones to provide colour and design. Purified gold wire outlines the design and also conceals the lac background.

**Perfection** · 07-28-2008, 03:31 PM

Hawa Mahal ("Palace of Winds") is the focal point of the city. By bus I reached Badi Chauper for Hawa Mahal. It's entry is from backside at Rs 10.

The five storied Hawa Mahal has projecting windows and balconies with perforated screens. It was designed to enable the veiled ladies of the harem to observe unnoticed the lively street below. The top of Hawa Mahal has a good view of the city. The 20 cm thick wall are made of lime and mortar in 1799 by Sawai Pratap Singh (1778- 1803).

The nearby Bazaars (markets) are worth a look - Bapu bazaar, Tripolia bazaar, Johari bazaar, Kishan pol bazaar etc. From Badi Chuper, one can visit Galtaji temple by bus and a 30 minute climb over a hill (Bus No 000). The location of the temple is in a narrow valley behind the hill. The route has good views of the city.

The Naharghat fort ("Tiger fort") is on nearby hill and is a good place to view the city buildings. From Chand pol ("Moon Gate") take a rickshaw to the base of the fort (Rs 10). A morning climb will be enjoyable. The desolated fort has a lavish palace called Madhavendra Bhavan.

**Perfection** · 07-28-2008, 03:32 PM

City palace 's Sawai Man Singh II museum is at a walkable distance. The Palace has been the home to the rulers of Jaipur since the first half of the 18th century. Entry Rs 40, Camera Rs 50, with no photography of inside galleries. The entry is through Rajendra pol gateway, which has two large elephants carved from single blocks of marble.

The Diwan-i-Khas has world's largest silver urns (two) weighing 345 kg each (In Guinness Book of records, carried sacred Ganges water for Madho Singh II's visit to London in 1901). The 900 litre urn has a height of 1.6 m and a circumference of 14 feet 10 inch.

The museum has a textile gallery with royal costumes (Maharani's Dewali dress, superb shawls including Kashmiri pashmina) in a marble decorated sandstone palace (Mubarak Mahal). The exhibit Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh I's clothing is 2 m tall, 1.2 m wide and weighs 250 kg. Appropriately for such an excessive figure, he had 108 wives. A hall with huge chandeliers (Diwan-i-Am), handicrafts shops, Transport gallery with silver & gold palanquins, Haudas, cannons on wheels, an art gallery, a palace cafe.

**Perfection** · 07-28-2008, 03:34 PM

Armour gallery

The armour is housed in the former Maharani's (queen's) apartment. The museum has fantastic collection of well arranged and labelled weapons and armoury, one of the best in India. Exhibits include Raja Man Singh I's 11 pound sword, swords and daggers of emperor Jahangir, knife with nine implements which fit in it's handle, shields, lances, guns, gun powder boxes etc.

Fearsome daggers are arranged over the entrance to say WELCOME. Many of the ceremonial weapons are beautifully engraved and inlaid, and so are the lethal ones such as the two bladed daggers that at the flick of a catch become scissors inside their victims. If you're not into bloody weaponry, the mirrored and gold inlayed ceilings are well worth a gaze.

The craft demonstration area has a variety of good quality handicraft items - Rajasthani miniature paintings, carpets, manuscripts, a highly decorated silver throne, ivory elephant howdah etc - for sale.

Don't miss the delicately painted doorways of the courtyard Pritam Niwas Chowk (Court of the Beloved), representing spring, summer, autumn and winter - and above all the gorgeous bas reliefs of the peacock gate. For the curious, at Rs 2500, can visit the private highly decorated city palace (7 storied Chandra Mahal).

**Perfection** · 07-28-2008, 03:37 PM

The Jantar Mantar solar observatory is near City palace (Rs 20 with photography, free on Monday). It has a number of masonry astronomical instruments made up of stone and metal. Of the five observatories built by Raja Sawai Jai Singh II, the one in Jaipur is the largest and best preserved; the others are in Delhi, Ujjain, Mathura and Varanasi. From 1728 to 1734, 16 giant instruments were made for astronomical studies. The marble inlay of the instruments were done in 1901 by Madho Singh II.